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I am the pillion rider and navigation expert who guided Ajay through the 1700 km we spent on our bike during five days of December 2014. You have probably read what the rider/driver Ajay had to say about the ride and the time spent on the bike.
I am here to bust a few myths and give out some handy information to those who are planning to ride pillion at some point or the other.

You should know how to ride too.

When we started/ Ajay suggested I kept on reminding him that this would mean him riding all 800 km to Pondicherry and then back. He was Ok with it and we did manage quite well. But I believe if I knew how to ride he could have rested a bit and be at ease on the road.

Nagging is not the way to go

If you do not like the way someone drives get off that bike and don't ride pillion unless it is a life and death situation, well at least don't go riding long distances. The rider is right up front and knows the traffic situation better than you (hard to believe right!). If you want to help keep an eye on things coming in from behind or blockages that he/she might miss because they are dodging the traffic.

You are no guest, help navigating

If you believe that driver is going to take the right turn that is not going to happen his hands are busy driving and mind is busy making sure you don't end up face first on the road, it is the pillion rider's job to help navigate. Use a GPS enabled device (highly recommended) or a map and make sure you are on the right road and take the right exit.

Find a way to get the luggage off your back

Your legs are going to get uncomfortable real soon there is no reason your shoulders should be taking any load at least for 16+ hours. Buy a pannieror luggage tie down and get that load off your back and shoulders.

Never say no to a toilet

Stop when you have to use the toilet whenever you can find it they will be hard to come by 10 Km after your pit stop. Ladies if it is periods time make sure you are not just well stocked but also change whenever you find a private enough toilet. If you get cramps do something about it back seat of a motorbike is not the place to practice drug free restraint, make that pain go because this ride is not ending anytime soon.

Odometer and roads talk differently

Did your odometer show you driving at 80 Kmph for last 40 minutes, but the road signs show you have barely traveled 30 Km don't scratch your head, trust those road signs because it is the road that matters. As a thumb rule you will average around 50-60 Km every hour including breaks so don't fret you will reach when you do.

Protect your self

There are elaborate protection options available for almost all parts of your body but full body armor is more often than not required. Get yourself a good helmet something you would be comfortable in wearing and can easily breathe in with the visor closed. Add to that rain protection and in case you are riding in cold weather get yourself a pair of gloves. There is another piece of gear which I love so much that I wrote and entire post about it, even if you don't get anything else get this. (The post is coming Soon)

Right glasses are a blessing

Like I said earlier you need to be navigating and also have your eyes on the road, getting blinded by sand or lights is not going to help. Get anti glare sunglasses which you can wear even in the night time basically they should not be CAT 4 or 5. If you have two glasses one for the sun and another anti glare driving glass that would be ideal.

Seat Covers matter

People will tell you a lot of functional reason why your bike seat should be protected and they are all right on point. What most miss is to tell you how a wrong seat cover can wreak havoc on your behind if you are going to be riding for long. We started with a old seat cover which was almost off the rear part of the seat and had folded. I could feel it poking me all through our first eight hours of ride and then we decided to get rid of it and the ride was much more smooth. Our plan was to get a padded cover but couldn't find one, still I was way better without any seat cover than a bad one.

Basic tools are a must

With all the vibrations and speed our number plate screws got loose and as we reached Nandyal we found out we were missing a screw. Our swiss knife came in really handy as we cut a piece of cord from our now removed seat cover and tied the number plate with it. When another one was lost next day at Ranipet same, since then we have driven over 1200 Km and our number plate is still secure. We had been thinking if we should take the knife or not. In short, Best Decision ever.

Soda works better than Chai

We had tea almost every hour either to stretch our toes or to keep me awake and though it served the first part well I would never really feel the stimulant effects of tea. Then at Kadappa on our way back we decided to drink some soda, and that did the trick. Not only was it refreshing I was up and awake for the remaining 8 hours. My research says there is same amounts of caffeine in a serving but usually the servings on road are quite small.

Huge meals are good for you

Usually we eat every few hours but if you are riding and do not want to waste time it is better to have huge meals instead of stopping to eat every few hours. We had some biscuit and chai early in the morning and then a huge breakfast around 9 am which would keep us full till 2-3 pm around which we would be in another city and sit down for lunch.

Take care of how you dress

This one is more for female riders or pillion drivers. Those movies which show shorts wearing ladies rocking a bike are not realistic especially if you are riding through Indian highways and rural areas. Be sensitive and more importantly sensible. Wear a loose jacket and tie in your hair. Less you look like a female lesser problems you will have. We rode through a lot of different roads villages and areas but had no problem except for a minor incident near Hyderabad. But it was enough to remind me that I had forgotten my self prescribed medicine of not drawing attention to us. The drive was safe even at 8-9 in the night and through villages just take precautions as you would take anywhere. It is irritating to even write this but it is still rare for women to be on highways riding a bike, and not all curiosity is good.

These are not all the things you need to know but they will take you through 16 hours on a bike any day, other's you will learn soon after you are on the bike. Do remember to take rest and start early whenever your destination is more than 400 km.

Let us know if these were of help and when you are planning to take your first road trip. In case you are a road trip veteran share with us your tips and tricks
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We took a Road trip riding around 1700 km on our bike in a span of 4 days and it was amazing. Bright daylight to non lit highways in the night; from smooth uninterrupted highway to bumpy town roads; from heavy rain to strong winds; we saw it all and rode through it all. We just got up an decided to take the trip but we did learn a few things on our way, which would have been helpful before we started.

Here are some such points you should keep in mind while planning for a bike road trip especially if you are the driver.

Plan well before you start


Planning is a important part of any activity. For biking, you should study the road & weather conditions and prepare accordingly. We used Navigator app for route/directions and it helped us a lot. For road conditions research on dedicated sites (if you are in India these would be Team-bhp, Indiamike, TheAutomotiveIndia) . Most sites have active forums and there are plenty of roadsters with fresh/latest info for your route. Plan time intervals for your stops/breaks based on your bike condition, experience and interests. If you love grasslands stop when you reach one and take your break instead of stopping at  a random tea shop along the road.

Own basic biking accessories


You might commute daily in the city on your bike but that is far from how highways will be. Some of the must haves are helmet, gloves, padded biking shorts, full body raincoat, anti glare glasses (not sunglasses) and cushioned seat cover. Also carry a basic tool kit, you may need it for unexpected things, we lost number plate screws from our bike which we tied with my seat cover string using a Swiss knife.

Learn to avoid high beam glare


High beam glare is a serious issue faced by all drives. You need to be extra alert while driving at night. Use anti glare glasses to cut the glare from oncoming traffic. Clean your glasses and helmet visor frequently as dust or water droplet scatter the light way more than a clean class. Do not look directly into the light and focus on road markings and signs to get an idea of turns, lanes, etc. Placing yourself behind another bigger vehicle and remaining in its shadow is a good idea. Your speed might be compromised but it's better than an accident. I used all these tricks to dodge high beams with little effect on my average speed.

Don't be the only driver


Its not always possible but having a driving partner is great. All of you will agree  on this. You get the pleasure of riding and also time to enjoy the beauty of your route. Double bonus

Don't be over ambitious


You wont save much time by high speeds and rash driving but you will increase chances of a mishap. Ride at a comfortable pace and take a few breaks here and there. You will end up tired and less focused by stretching your ride time without breaks which will make riding difficult. Keep in mind  that a driver should always be fresh and alert. We took 10 minutes break after every 50 minutes of drive.

Have a backup plan


Things can go completely wrong on the road without much warning. A flat tire, long traffic jams or upset stomach can eat a lot of time and your plan would be out of the window. Have an alternate plan so that you can act without wasting much time. We had backup plan or a initial plan for that matter. When we reached Kadapa at 9PM, we walked in 3 hotels before finally finding a room adding another 30 minutes before we could lie down and relax. We wanted to drive further but thankfully a day on the road taught us enough to stop and get on the road again the next day.

Let us know if these were of help and when you are planning to take your first road trip. In case you are a road trip veteran share with us your tips and tricks.


Ajay Saxena
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Past few weeks have been very busy not just with office demanding a bigger share of our times but also with us deciding to change things up a bit on the blog and heading towards a business. 2014 has been a great year which took us from ad hoc freelancing travelers to travelers who are now working on something big. A lot of exciting things are in store from a email course to a weekend travel series, our subscribers will get a Longing Travel calendar and not just that there is something bigger than all of us which we are going to be a part of.

Another big news is that Ajay is now going to be here a lot, we had distributed roles which left me to be the writer and promoter and Ajay did the photography and back end part. we are slowly moving to a situation where we both share and engage those of you who have been on our Facebook page would have noticed Ajay lurking around much more. Oh and another news we crossed 1100 likes on Facebook this Sunday thanks to a promotion we did this past week. The reason why I am excited about it is because a considerable amount of those are organic actually more than 30% are. We are also partnering with some exciting people and if you had seen our FB page you would know we are getting a lot of new stuff for you.

If anyone of you has been facing problems with your business and socials write up to us we are testing a few things and right now our services are free; simply because we are testing. Wait, have you subscribed to the email updates? You should otherwise how will we become closer friends and how would you be a part of our blog.
That's all for updates today let's now talk about one of our favorite encounters on the road.


We have been called foolish and I would have agreed with those people on the day we were walking in Khajuraho from Western group of temples to the railway station. This was not our first visit to the temples of life, and last time we had left no corner unseen so this time all we wanted to do was relive Khajuraho's most famous temples.

After a walk in the complex and eating our heart's content at Raja Cafe across the road we decided to walk the 8 km distance to the Railway station confident in our ability to walk and assured by the string of Hotels on the way. As we walked and sun beat down on us (it was October not fair) water and then beer was a thing we were looking for. Autos, shared vehicles, motorcyclists, four wheelers and even trucks looked at us in surprise. I remember a shared auto did around 2-3 round trips while we were walking and it is quite possible that he did a few more while we wasted our money at Ramada. (Do not expect a cold drink at Ramada Khajuraho, basically don't expect anything cold, AC doesn't work either)

Aloo Paratha and Chutney

With breaks along the road and exhausted we reached corner of the road where a few men were eating what looked like good food. Nothing more than a shack and run by an elderly couple it was definitely the best part of our day even better than the temples. we were served with aloo paratha and chutney, the same you see in the photograph above. Hot, crispy and soft it is still one of the best aloo paratha I have had. We were really happy, you know the kind of happy food makes you, yup that kind warm fuzzy and really intrigued by the dhaniya tamatar ki chutney (cilantro and tomato) which was quite different from what we are used to.

As we packed up and paid uncle, aunty his wife came out of the shack where she had been cooking and asked us why we did not take curd. We thought they might not have it and none of us wanted to be bothersome. As we talked to them they took us in like their own children for those few minutes we were there.

The shack was earlier run by their son, Mijaji whom they lost some time ago. Aunty nearly cried as she talked to Ajay calling him like her son. 

I have thought about them a lot since then, whether their shack dhaba is still running or not. I hope it is, over months I have forgotten the address but it is on the road we walked and if I remember correctly it is near the river crossing.
Our Route


In case you do visit them let them know a couple still talks about their parathas and them.

Have you ever had story and food from a completely unexpected place stick to you?
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We went to Andaman& Nicobar for ten days, you would remember it from my last post. Now it is time for me to help you plan your trip to Andaman the way I helped you plan your trip to Diu.


This post is more for those who have researched about Andamans but are looking for some first hand experience and reposts. In case you are looking for the First Hand guide it will be out soon. Now that you have decided to visit Andamans the far Away Indian territory with beautiful beaches, forests and wildlife it is time to take note of all the things below. You will thank me for it later.


Transport

All of us on the ferry deck to Havelock

Transport in Andaman can be the biggest spoil sport for your plans and you will not know what is going to happen unless you land in Andaman or get your tickets booked through an agent. If like us you are DIY ticket bookers go straight to phoenix bay jetty in Port Blair from your airport, and book your ferry tickets. Bus terminus is close by and in case you are looking to catch a bus to go up north get your tickets there. Ferry advance booking counters are closed on Sunday and even when they are open you will have to endure a long line filled with agents who always seem to multiply before you. If you know when you are going to leave the other Island get that ticket booked here too. Earlier you book the tickets more chances you have to get the ticket and not have your plans pushed back due to ticket unavailability.
After all the exercise remember a ticket is no guarantee that your vessel will leave on the designated date in case of bad weather the ferry will be canceled along with all issued tickets. You will have to buy fresh tickets.
Another thing which you need to consider is the timings, there are no transport options in the night an almost every thing moves around 6 in the morning. Do not attempt to get from one place to another far away in a day or night. Plan in some stop days and options.

If someone has the link for online booking of ferries or bus please leave it in the comments.

Health Care


Andaman is every one's Health care dream. Government provides free health care and hospitals are quite clean and well maintained. We had to use the services on multiple occasion and were pleasantly surprised to find reliable services available on even the remote Long Island. We were treated with injections and medicines with great recovery and all of that for free. On the other hand it is quite impossible to find pharmacies anywhere except for Port Blair.

Language and culture


Andaman is almost little India. You will people talking in Bangla, Tamil and most surprisingly Hindi. English is widely spoken and most Indians as well as foreigners will rarely have problem communicating. Like the language the culture is heavily influenced by the mainland and it is quite evident in clothes, interactions and celebrations. Durga Puja is a big festival and though it is difficult for any on to match the craze in Gujarat or Bengal Andaman did well with beautifully done Pandals and blaring songs. It might not be the best way to celebrate it but it is a big festival like many other mainland festivals from different regions.

Food and Liquor

Rate list for liquor outside Govenment Shop in English and Hindi

Just like the language and culture food is heavily influenced by Tamil Nadu and Bengal. You will find piping hot idli and parota in the morning for breakfast and thali for lunch and dinner. Taste and style of curries will vary depending on whether you are in a tamil establishment or a Bengali one. In the main Andaman Island we came across mostly Tamil and South Indian influences in food while it became majorly Bangla as we traveled to Havelock.
Liquor like all UTs in India is very cheap, you can get a chilled beer bottle for under 80 from a Government shop and for around 120-150 in one of the expensive bars. Other spirits are similarly priced with known Indian brands available in a few hundreds to Johnnie walker aged running for around 2500.

It is very cheap and very expensive

Our Duplex cottage for 3 great deal and right across the beach

Andaman is like most of India and yet different. Here you can get clean accommodation for two starting at 350-500 or you can spent 5000 a night easily for an average accommodation in one of the high end resorts.This was a welcome relief after all the fretting about Andaman trip.  Most cheap accommodation come without attached toilets especially in the islands though you will get good accommodation with attached toilets for 500-600 in Port Blair. The places we stayed in were not just clean and well maintained the toilet to user ratio was also very good. We rarely missed attached toilets except when nature called late at night. Rooms with attached toilets run from 100-1500 upwards and have no real top limit.
Air conditioned rooms seem to be in big demand especially by Indian tourists, maybe it was the time we had visited but we saw no need of AC rooms. If your room has ventilation rest assured the island has enough sea breeze. Actually I for one needed a sheet or two to keep away the cold which would settle in late in the night.
Food is likewise quite inexpensive as long as you stick to local fare especially vegetarian. In case you want some meat choose sea food over chicken and you will still have a cheaper deal. Rice is the accompaniment of choice though you might get parota or roti if you are lucky.

Very few people harass tourists

The People of Long Island- Nobody spared us a look and we loved it!

To be true very few will turn and look at you unless you approach them first. People here not only respect privacy but are quite content looking after themselves. You might have a few asking if you need an auto but a single nod will solve the problem even at the Airport.
That being said this is not true for the Havelock Jetty where you will find agents in droves approaching tourists. Even though most tourists come here as a part of some group tour you will find touts trying to help you get everything from taxi to hotel.

Forget the Internet and sometimes your phone and Relax


There is no Internet in Andamans. You might get fleeting connection on your phone in Port Blair but don't expect a regular 2G service let alone 3G running with any force. We did spot a few cyber cafe and one of our guest house in Port Blair offered WiFi in reception area for 60 and hour. In Havelock though you can book every thing online the only Internet we found was satellite Internet costing around 150 for 30 minutes of usage. Forget about your mail and enjoy the nature.
If you have a BSNL connection you rare the king in Andaman, and you will have network on all islands. Most other carriers are limited to Port Blair and Havelock with some connection around Rangat. Like most remote areas in India BSNL is the way to go.

If there is something you would like to share or ask put it in the comments below. I would be happy to help.
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Diu is often compared with Goa but it has a very different feel and people who make it a very different experience. I have been to both the beaches in off season and the difference is amazing. While some activities might be closed in Goa during off season Diu becomes even more lazy and quiet. It is the weekends which infuse life in the otherwise solitary streets and beaches. Diu gets a lot of alcohol/liquor tourists from dry state of Gujarat. Though many hotels and guest houses close kitchens, the smaller bars are always open and never without patrons. 

A small island territory, Diu has beaches and forests to offer a visitor, along with many churches, temples and some Zoroastrian structures.
While researching for our trip I was quite surprised by lack of information on the city. Maybe I did not look at the right place, maybe there is actually a lag. I decided to do a series on Diu and finally compile it as a eBook available for download (maybe). Before I go to the specifics here are some of the tips I wanted to give out.

Take that auto

We weren't smiling by the end and do not have a single photo to prove our bad state
If you are flying and plan on staying in the city and not near the Nagoa beach I would suggest you take an auto and not try to wing it walking like we did. We have walked 6-7 km at many places but for the first time we were beat walking the 7 km stretch. Not only was it very hot no auto or phatphat stopped to take us when we decided to give up until we were 2 km short of our destination. From the st. Paul church to our guest house felt like a mountainous climb instead of the few 100 m of gently climbing road. Take the auto at the airport.
Same hold good for getting down at the bus stand and living near Nagoa.

Forget the AC

This is afternoon in our room

If you can survive slight hot weather I would recommend you skip AC and revel in the winds of Diu. Even though the sun is bright and beating down hard winds are cool and almost always flowing. All of our afternoons were spent indoors as we waited for the hottest part of the day to go past. Nights get cool and you will need a light cover to keep you comfortable.

Carry a mosquito repellent

If you love open widow and sea breeze mosquitoes will be your biggest woes come evening. We did not take any repellents and paid for it one night. It would be best to carry a plug-in repellent or the coil though I would recommend plugins as they are not smoky and smell less.

Get a transport

Our ride along with the owner's these are everywhere in Diu

There is no public transport except for auto rickshaws but they are too few and may be absent when you want to come back from the secluded beach. Cycles are definitely the best option and will cost you about 100 a day for a new one and around 50 for a old pair of wheels. We opted for a scooter, not the greenest way but we had taxed our legs and cycling scared us. It cost us 300 a day but usual costs are 350 we were told. with petrol for 150 filled in we roamed around all corners of Diu clocking around 100 Km.

Eat local/Kathiyawari

If you are eating at any of the local places and not a resort your best bet is Kathiawari food. It is about half the price of other fares and is delicious. A plate of Kathiyawari subzi or curry will cost you 60Rs while a thali should be around 100-140 Rs. Even if the complex mix of Indian spices scare you this one should be fine. It has a good balance of spices and is not hot like most local food choices around India. With a small amount of sweetness added it is both satisfying and delicious. Among all the food we had we are a big fan of Gujrati thali and undhiyu.

Visit the INS Kukri memorial

View from the Kukri Memorial

There are many beaches in Diu being an island it is blessed with sand and sea. Most famous is the Nagoa beach which is 2 km from the airport. Another beach and perhaps my favorite is the Chandrikamata beach on the Kukri memorial side. Like most other beaches there is a temple at this beach too and you can witness evening prayers with floating lamps. But when you move towards the memorial you are met with a hillock and a backwater beach. This one is also one of the cleanest beaches. The backwater pool has rocks on the sea side which make for beautiful breaking waves and result in huge amounts if broken shells which litter the beach. If you like shells take a small walk on the rocks behind the beach opposite to the memorial. Here small crevices are home to numerous small developing shells and some full grown ones.

Diu is a lazy city with its charming beaches and historical structures. It might not be the place where the party is but it is the best place to take a break from hectic travelling and life.
Tweet these tips or keep a PDF for your self.

Members check the Goodies folder for the pdf.


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This is one of the chapters from my book Work Travel Live. The book will be available by the month end and you should be signing up if you want it.

This chapter will show you how to use the skills we learnt to plan and execute your trip to your liking. While we were planning for our honeymoon none of us had money to spend over a lakh on one trip so we decided to see how efficiently we can manage it.
Our goal as always was to reduce the fixed costs of flights and accommodation. With me being a vegetarian food was a concern. We were to say the least highly inefficient in our planning and travel still we managed to keep the trip within our pockets.

Transport


Our marriage dates were decided in July 2010 and we booked our first flight tickets in August 2010. Our trip dates were in February next year. Yes almost six months before our trip we booked our first tickets. Air Asia had just introduced itself in India and it was an opportunity like never before. We paid a total of 20000 for our return flights (to KL) combined along with luxury bus to Penang and flight back. We had really wanted to do a night in houseboat and it became easy with Air Asia’s direct and cheapest flight to Kochi. We then took a flight back to Delhi which cost us an additional 6500 combined.
We got two very important benefits of booking flights this early. Firstly we got great prices partly due to promotions and also by spreading our flights over a few months we never felt as if a big chunk of money was lost in a single click.
We combined both air and road transport. Though the costs were almost similar it let us see some new sights we would have missed if we flew into Penang instead of taking the bus.

Accommodation


When you are planning your accommodation you dream of comfy beds with luxurious bathrooms. We got both but reduced the costs by taking off things we would not use. We knew we were going to be mostly out and wanted to be close to the city center so we booked Tune hotel which is AirAsia sister concern. The hotel was well maintained and had awesome bed and shower. Its location close to metro station helped us to get around the city easily. Cost for four nights was 4200.
Next hotel in Penang was a bit more luxurious and we paid 3100 for two nights. Both of these being in city center we could walk around and get cheap food to suit my vegetarian requirements. Also they were cheap and easy to reach.
After coming back to India our first night was at youth hostel in a private room that cost us 600/- for the night. I was not really happy with the youth hostel simple quarters; it was our honeymoon after all. Today the accommodation feels just right.
Next day and night was our big honeymoon treat in houseboat which cost us 5000 all inclusive. Except for the youth hostel all other accommodations would not be called backpacker’s haunts. We had luxury and the extra expenditure on the house boat didn’t even register because of the novel experience we had.

Local transport

I would admit had I not been tense about missing our flights we might not have ended up spending on airport taxis. Almost all the airports had buses or other means available. Except for those taxis it was bus and metro all the way. I can’t give you exact figure but it never really went overboard. We walked a lot and free bus service in Penang was a boon.
Also while in Fort Kochi we walked most of town just like in Penang’s Georgetown area.

Food and drinks


This was a big challenge for an Indian vegetarian. Let me explain what that means. I don’t consume meat and eggs but I do take in dairy products. We Indians are a bit too finicky about what we eat and I had dosa and idli almost all days we were there in Penang. I now know the variety of food Penang has on offer and some of them is actually vegetarian. We did not even have cendol.
McD doesn’t serve vegetarian options, I don’t know why. They do so here in India. The only food I could have was a pizza which was too expensive to have every day. I practically survived on fruits. If you can rent an apartment and cook for yourself you are going to be really happy. Even a snack or sandwich prepared for your food sensibilities can be a blessing. Research what food is available and ask the restaurant to cook it as per your requirements. During my next trip to the place I found that most places were ready to switch the meat add-ons for veggies and I was never hungry.
We did not drink a single glass of liquor and were better off without it. It was my first trip outside India and I was far too alert. I am quite sure those cheap beer buckets at china town must be quite inviting. But think before you end up finishing one all by yourself.

Souvenirs

I love to shop, I am a girl but I usually fix price for an item in my mind. If it’s more than that I don’t usually buy it. Along with that I can haggle though I am not great at it like many in our family. This makes the chances of getting what I like at my price better. We ended up with a few 10RM souvenirs and bought some cheap keychain packs for people back home.
Think twice before you buy anything. Those vases do look beautiful but they can break very easily if those airport luggage people don’t handle it well. We found some affordable, beautiful table top fountains in a mall and were about to buy it when Ajay just picked it up. It was too heavy and three of them would burden our already loaded bags. So we left it there and brought back some shot glasses and random souvenirs that people back home liked.
I always suggest buying a few key chains with some imagery on it. This will reduce the cost but you can gift it to people you are not really close with.

Our Mistakes

Before you think it seems possible and let’s do it this way let me tell you about the mistakes we made.

Baggage

This is one of my biggest regrets and was a constant worry especially while checking in. I am sure we could have managed without the loaded bags we were carrying.
I had a bag full of sarees and shoes as we were flying just after our marriage, and I wasn’t keen on leaving it at my in-laws. We were not returning to Hyderabad in near future so it did not make sense.
Now it makes sense. We would have saved up some 1500 that we paid for pre booked check in baggage on Air Asia. We were on the margin and any extra weight would have cost us additional money on the trip. Definitely not a desirable situation.
Apart from cost it was inconvenient. We had stuffed handbags, were wearing our heaviest jackets in the flights and held our breath when the polite ladies were weighing our bags. It is not worth the trouble. I had half a bag full of shoes and wore just two pair entire time.

We could have stayed cheaper


Sure all that we spent wasn’t major but now I feel there were quite a few places we did not look at because their sites did not look good or we thought they were very cheap.
We booked the houseboat through the guy at our youth hostel. I am sure had we waited till we reached Alleppy we could have had a cheaper deal.
This can be a bit risky in case you don’t find accommodation at the last moment, still we were back to our home country and there’s always a way out.

Food

We are both big time foodies. While I am the adventurous kind Ajay would not experiment while alone. Scared by sights of hanging seafood in china town I did not even eat roti canai or the other vegetarian fare, though rare were on offer. I strongly suggest you ask people what goes into the thing they are serving you. You would in most cases be able to get them to cook up something for you. Though expect just fries in major food outlets.
There is a high chance that you might not be able to get through to the vendor try somewhere else. I could easily find people speaking Hindi in Malaysia if not English. If you miss out on food you miss out on a lot that the place has to offer.

Don’t repeat our mistakes, do your own and tell us about them. In the next edition maybe I’ll put a few under your name.
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So how is life going on? Mine has been fairly busy some changes a home and a lot of changes in and around work and general life. Travel had taken a back seat past month as we were working towards new goals and to be true things have been going really well. You will hear about it in the Travel digest for June. Yes I have just renamed my monthly travel and life update newsletter and you can definitely expect something new and updated.


I have been dying to share more about our scuba adventure in April end but as you can see I have been all but absent from the blog. In few words- It was awesome. 
Both of us are now proud scuba certified divers. I realized that I have not put up anything in the blog when we got our dive cards a few days back. Scuba diving can be best explained as the calm adventure sport. I have gone rafting in the Ganges, jumped from a cliff, rock climbing and rappelling,  para-sailed, trekked a bit and diving has to be one of the most satisfying yet calming experiences of them all. I am not yet sure that it is counted in adventure sports or not but going by reactions from our near and dear ones it is indeed considered dangerous and an adventure.

Dangerous it is, forget the tenets of safe diving and you are in for a rude shock which you might never live to tell. Follow what they tell you and you will not just survive you will be swimming life a fish though with a breathing apparatus.

Before i go deep into what and how diving is let me tell you our motivation to go diving. Flight sales, yup that is what started it all. Indian aviation industry has some how decided that it is going to give heavy discounts to get people to fly. We flew to back to Jaipur in 2000 Rs each and a round trip to Maldives was for less than 10 K. You know us if there's a deal, if its good and we can afford it we always take it. So we started planning our trip and then realized if we did not dive in Maldives it would be a ticket wasted. Don't get me wrong I do believe there's plenty to do in the country apart from diving.

Finally i was able to convince Ajay with a considerable investment of 18000/- it was a huge commitment. This is perhaps the biggest deterrent I have heard of apart from fear of water which you simply have to face at some point of time. So after being certified I take it upon me (though late) to clarify some questions/doubts/misconceptions about scuba diving.

1. Which certification should I choose?

Choose anyone and seriously don't fret. If you like to go along the flow and not take any risks choose PADI. If you would like to save some money choose SSI. Finally it is about going under water and getting your skills right.

2.What if I can't swim?

The instructors will not throw you out of class. our instructors were very cooperative and believe me even if you know how to swim 200m is can be a bit too much if you are not regular (that means me). We were asked to try with fins and snorkel gear and it was smooth for most of us. There were people who struggled but they managed by the end of the day.

3.Is it safe?

It is actually quite safe. Be alert and ALWAYS dive within your limits you will never face a problem. Diving with a buddy (partner of sorts) is the default safety ensuring technique. Accidents can happen but you will be trained for them actually dealing with accidents is all they teach you in the skills, right from loosing your regulator to getting out of air.

4. I am too fat/thin/tall/short/lazy/etc... Can I do it?

You are required to sign a medical form TRUTHFULLY before you start. Most of the above will not disqualify you but if your answer to any of their question s a yes let the instructor know.

5. I am afraid of water what do I do?

Talk to your instructor and build your trust in him/her and in your skills. If you need more practice ask for it. It is not just easy to practice more than once in the pool compare to vast waters of the ocean.

6. Do I need to take any precaution?

A few
  • Don't dive if you have a cold, you will not be able to equalize and it will hurt like a #%*$.
  • Schedule your flight at least 24 hours after your last dive.
  • Drink alcohol in moderation that means if you HAVE to keep is it a beer short than what gets you dizzy. Hangover and sea don't really go together.
  • Go crazy about water, you will need it.
  • Most importantly, never go down in pain if you have any discomfort tell your instructor. Being modest or shy isn't going to help.
7. Should I do the online study part?

SSI online course is free so yeah do it if you have time and you trust yourself to remember it all. It will save a lot of your time. PADI online material is paid though but it will still save you a lot of time.

We did the OWD course and will move on to the advanced sometime this year.You can read more about the courses for SSI and PADI.
If you have a few more questions let us know, though this is not the end of diving posts I have one coming up specifically for divers with long hair (my pain ).

In case you have decided to take your first dive, let me know. If you have had a dive or many share your wisdom with us.

photo credit: Philippe Guillaume via photopin cc
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Had I known that we will not find a place to sleep, and will be walking hungry in Bijapur I would have let Ajay book the hotel when he said lets book it. I had been influenced by the clever stories that float all around you. How you always find a room and at much cheaper prices when you book it after getting to a place. I am certain Ajay is cursing me at this very moment.
Our Bus to Bijapur

The trip started on a really promising note. We managed to get to the bus boarding point by shared auto, bus and our legs no hired autos or taxis. Then it got better as the bus was a really deluxe one. Oh I still remember the awesome inclining seats that it had. Not that it changed anything for me. I did my usual topsy turning dance that I always do. I can only love a push-back for few minutes no matter how comfy it is.
Well it ended good too we were dropped right in front of the bus stand and all we had to do was catch the bus to Badami.
What many forget (at-least I do) is the daily rituals a human is forced to perform, stop you from boarding a bus straight away. These involve a private area and some source of water. To say that the area should be clean is not even required. It HAS to be. Sight of a public toilet was a relief and we made our separate ways to the one designated for our gender. I wish I did-not. I am still to see a toilet that is worse than that. It suffices to say that it was simply and utterly unusable. I am still not sure how the female who walked out a few minutes after I had abandoned the building, used it. That's never a good start to a day. It meant controlling the urges and walking through the streets of Badami.
We had our breakfast (yes I ate) and got on the bus to Kerur. It is a small town on the highway some 20 Km from Badami. The driver took his time and we were standing in the small bus stand of Kerur around two hours later. In a few minutes our connection to Badami came and we huddled in with the others. The bus drive till Badami is something I will always remember fondly. The bus would stop every time people had to get down. When I say stopped it meant the engines were cut. The driver waited patiently for a minute or ten, for people to get down fight with those who were trying to get in and then for those who were decent enough to let others get down. It was very normal for everyone. Nobody complained that they were getting late. I think the only people who wanted to reach our destinations soon were us.
To say that we stood the entire time would be incorrect we performed a strange dance. Aj had the backpack so every time people moved he would have to move and adjust himself till we found a place to keep the bag. I had to arrange myself among the group of children (I suspect they were siblings) who got in with a woman. Children were quite well behaved and the lady was micromanaging them the way all moms do.
Finally at the Badami bus stand it was time to catch Patadakal bound bus. I know what you are thinking-we sat in a  lot of buses. This one was similar to the Kerur-Badami ride but we had a seat to sit and the journey lasted a little over half and hour. Directed towards the temple complex we walked a few hundred meters to the gate.
Where we got down from the bus

This was a very different hawker experience than other monuments. Firstly we were the only outsiders everyone else was from the neighboring areas. There was nobody selling any souvenirs but there were a lot of women selling food. If you do get to Pattadakal do have the Johar roti and subji that a woman sells for 20/-(2013). Listen to the other lady next to her and buy the curd. The red powder you see on the roti here is fiery and you will find your nasal passages responding furiously.
Tasty fiery food

Ticket prices remain the same at 10/- for Indians and 250/- for foreigners. If you are interested in reading about the history and details of the temples this is what ASI says about it and this is Wikipedia. I am quite sure of my limited history writing capabilities and that is not the point of the post either. These are beautiful temples built over different periods and in different styles and I loved them. The thing I found most interesting was the number of smaller shrines with Shiv ling and a corresponding Nandi in front. Bigger the Shiv ling bigger the Nandi and so on. I did search the web for information on this but found nothing. If anyone of you know the story behind these share it with us here. These temples have really beautiful like this one of a lady with parrot.
Pattadakal Temples

The complex is not too big to tire you though it is a bit of walk. You can also rest on the resting areas made by the kings for their and civilian use. Or just sit on the stairs like we did.
Our co-passengers back to Badami

After satisfying ourselves we were back on our way to Badami. There is also a Jain temple some distance which I forgot about and realized that as our minibus/tempo was crossing the temple. We found the lady with piercings on this ride.

I had been seeing these vividly colored bottles at a few places on our way to Pattadakal and on our way back it struck me. These are what we lovingly call desi daaru. Ajay confirmed my suspicion and now I can say I have seen a desi daru ka theka.
Desi Daaru ka Theka (local wine shop)

Badami caves were our next stop. We had decided to skip Aihole due to time and transport issues. I thought we would have to stay a night at Badami to see both temples and caves but we were at the caves around 12. This meant we could go to Bijapur and stay. Bigger city means better chances of finding an accommodation. As we walked up the incline to Badami the kids around waved and called to us. We must have stood out with our sunglasses and probably the only people walking the distance.
(I will break my story to say that do not miss the sugarcane juice if you are in the city. It is far sweeter and the taste is very different from what I have tasted in other parts of India. )
The caves are beautiful and my sculpture loving self was really happy I just wish there were less stairs to get to the caves. Less stairs and less monkeys. These jumping monsters have a reputation of snatching things and you better keep your belongings safe. Also DONOT feed them.

We were back in the bus to Kerur around 2 our fingers crossed so that we can make the cutoff for Gol Gumbaj in Bijapur. The Journey went on and I found myself thinking about the Gulmohur that I have found in all Karnataka heritage sites and world heritage sites. someone in ASI sure loves them as much as I do they are beautiful trees and sit the Indian conditions really well. By the time we sat on the bus to Bijapur it was becoming more and more clear that Gol Gumbaj as not written in our fates for today. Our driver this time was a good guy and took his time at-least half and hour more than the morning one to get us to Bijapur. By then it was nearing 5:30 and we did not even bother to get to the monument.
Acutally that would not be the full truth we started walking in the direction with me insisting on walking. 'I saw it in the morning as we entered the city. It was not that far.' I was wrong. We never reached the boundary wall of the compound and turned back as I refused to walk any further. Being tired and not using the rest room since morning doesn't really leave you with much energy.
This is what I was talking about when I started the post. Walking and looking for a place to stay so that we can see the Gol Gumbaj  and return on our pre-booked bus day after. Bijapur wasn't taking any of it and we ended up without a room with a not so desirable option of spending the night sitting on steel chairs of the bus stand. Oh I forgot to add I finally found a bathroom at the place we sat down to eat. That was  big relief!

We had rejected the state run expensive executive bus to Hyderabad earlier and now there were no tickets. We finally were told that there is a much cheaper bus which leaves for Hyderabad a few hours after the expensive one.
Aj found an empty seat to sleep

I can not even explain how relieved we both were when we sat in the bus. Ajay slept on a  seat meant for three passenger till Gulbarga and I sat balancing my mobile so that it would charge with the point being too high for the adapter. The late night dinner stop which served curries high in salt with tandoori roti was our savior. Fed and on our way home it was time to call the journey to an end.

If you want to visit these caves and temples read the practical information here.



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If there is something you will hear from travelers in SriLanka is how costly visiting some of the sites are. Dreamy hotels and impressive heritage with and equally impressive(read expensive) price tag can intimidate the budget traveler. While there are some must visit sites in Srilanka like the cultural triangle and beautiful national parks you need to be cautious if you are on a tight budget.

We being cash strapped as always worked towards keeping our costs low. We looked around for free things to do in the country along with not so expensive ones. These are as awesome as the cultural triangle and let you experience the SriLankan way of life. For people who think SriLanka's attractions is too expensive for their pockets these should be high on your list.

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Polhen Beach

1. Beaches

SriLanka has a huge coastline and beautiful beaches. The waters of the Indian Ocean are well suited for swimming and the quiet beaches are best to laze around. Many visit the famous beaches of Mount lavinia and Weligama studded with high end resorts. Costa can go a bit higher around these. Over past few years Mirissa has become a favorite. Do not restrict yourself within these few options try smaller and quieter beaches of Polhena and  Nilwella.
Buses are easily available all around the country and you will find direct buses to Matra and Tangalle from Colombo. Another option is to take a train to Matra and a bus or taxi to your beach.
There are wide choices of accommodation available from the pricey ones to dorm rooms. On our visit in February we found you can easily get a room after reaching the beach. If you like to plan book rooms at the hostel we stayed here or go through all the places here.


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Tea Plantations near Hatton


2. The Tea plantations

Srilanka produces some really good tea. The hill country is covered with tea plantations and they open their doors to visitors. You can expect a tour of the estate covering the plantations, tea  processing techniques along with tea tasting. Most of these are free though you might be offered some paid refreshments.
You can take a train or bus to get to one of the towns. Most of these plantations will be around if you are in the hills. A few plantations can also be found near the coast. These produce spices, coconut and rubber along with tea. Most of the visits are usually day tours but you can ask for accommodation in the estate. These are quite expensive and may defeat the free purpose.

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View from top of Sigiriya

3. The Alternate Sigiriya

Sigiriya or the lion mountian fascinates most of the travelers who come to srilanka. Entry priced at 3900 for foreigners (SAARC countries get 50% discount as of feb 2014) it is by no means cheap. Next to Sigiriya is the Pidurangala rock you can climb for- FREE. You might not have the bragging rights of Sigiriya but you will  have an equally stunning view and definitely better view of Sigiriya than those who climb it.
 The rock houses monks who used to occupy the area near Sigiriya. It has a temple and an impressive Budhdha statue.
Buses to sigiriya run at regular intervals from Dambull a which is then connected to Kandy through regular bus service. You can either stay at Dambulla or Sigiriya itself. In case you plan to climb both Sigiriya and Pidurangala rock it is better that you stay in Sigiriya.
We stayed at Kandy and visited Dambulla and Sigiriya in a day. If you are short on time you might want to do the same.


Srilanka

4. Walk around Galle fort

This is perhaps one of the well known free things that the country has to offer. Fort which is maintained in collaboration with The Netherlands is a delight to walk around. It is studded wit old houses and hotels along with small shops and museums. Though walking around the fort is free everything else can be quite expensive. We blew up 3500 LKR on a meal so think twice and ask for a menu before you sit down in one of those cute places.
There is a historical mansion museum which is free to visit. A collection by one man it is quite impressive. Though the entry is free you will be asked to have a look at their jewelry store. If you have been budget travelling for a while you should have no problem in walking out with a smile. We made Galle a day tour as we moved on to Colombo to catch our flight. It can be really humid so carry water along.

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Adam's Peak shrouded in clouds






5. Climb Adam's Peak


Though we had awesome time every single day this was perhaps the most defining thing of the whole trip for me. Not just because of he 5500 odd steps we climbed that night but also for the aching legs which reminded me of them every step. The mountain is said to have a footprint which every religion attributes to someone according to their legends.
The climb is attempted by many during the pilgrimage season. The route is well lit and there is no chance you will miss the steps. During the monsoon the steps can get slippery and individual attempt is not recommended. If you plan on climbing the peak  get to Nalathaniya (Dalhousie) from Hatton by bus (1.5 hours) try to stay as close to the base as you can. Doubles can be find for 1000 LKR a night just be ready to negotiate. Even in the peak season we were able to get room easily without any bookings. I would not suggest staying anywhere else except Nalathaniya.

Did we do them all?

We actually managed most of these in our eight day trip. We climbed actual Sigiriya rock instead of Pidurangala. The most defining of all was the climb to Adam's peak. Though the most enjoyable were the beaches.


Srilanka is way more than just these five things but if you have a job it might be difficult for you to take four weeks off and travel. Sign up below to keep on receiving travel updates and tips.


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Parul &Ajay +1

We are a couple travelling the world one country at a time with our full time jobs since 2013. Our daughter has joined us from 2018.


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